I’ve never been a fan of land border crossings. Something about the slow lines, inconsistent procedures, and the helplessness of handing over your passport to someone who may or may not speak your language always makes me uneasy. But over time, and many borders, I’ve come to accept that while I may never love land crossings, they’re part of the journey I’ve chosen. And they’ve given me stories I’ll carry forever.
My First Time: Canada–US Border
My first land crossing was between Canada and the United States, from Ottawa to New York, on a late-night student trip. A bus full of international students, many of us with visas, meant that we were stuck at the border for hours. It was well past midnight, and the process was slow and clinical. That night, I got my first taste of what border bureaucracy feels like.
That was just the beginning.
West Africa: ECOWAS “Free Movement”—Not So Free
Next came the Seme border between Nigeria and the Benin Republic. I’d dreaded this one, expecting chaos, but it wasn’t as bad as I’d imagined. Still, the driver disappeared with our passports for hours, and I had to pay for both exit and entry stamps, despite holding a Nigerian passport in a visa-free ECOWAS region. My passport was labelled a “virgin”, a ridiculous term used to justify unnecessary payments just because I hadn’t crossed that specific border before.
Things didn’t get better at the Benin–Togo border. Again, I was charged due to my “virgin” passport status. A man even tried to snatch my phone, accusing me of photographing him (I hadn’t). It was chaotic, confusing, and draining.
By the time I reached the Senegal–Gambia border, things escalated. “Virginity” now cost 5000 XOF. One Gambian officer searched every single item of clothing in my bag, lifted and shook out my underwear, and left me in stunned silence. I had never met her, but she made sure I’d never forget her.
Qatar to Saudi Arabia: The Longest Quiet Wait
Then came the Qatar–Saudi Arabia land crossing in December, a trip meant to be smooth, and weather-wise, it was. No heat, no chaos, just a very slow-moving process, made harder by the fact that we had hungry kids in the car. It was a public holiday, and it seemed like half the region had the same idea. It took hours, not because of any issues, but because of sheer volume. The return journey, thankfully, was much faster.
My Latest Crossing: Syria to Jordan
Fast forward to June 2025. After spending three amazing days in Syria, I planned to cross by land into Jordan on the first day of Eid, June 6th. I braced myself for holiday chaos, but to my surprise, the border was empty.
Stamping out of Syria was smooth. I had printed my Jordan e-visa ahead of time, unsure whether visas on arrival were issued at that border, especially during Eid. Better safe than stranded.
The only real delay was the vehicle search. They checked under the car, opened every bottle, and even peeled open cigarette packs the driver had bought. My backpack was fully unpacked and scanned.
But within 90 minutes, I was stamped into Jordan. I actually did a little happy dance!
The Jerusalem Attempt: When Timing is Everything
After three wonderful days in Jordan, I decided to cross by land to Jerusalem. And that’s when things got messy.
I was so focused on avoiding a Friday or Sabbath crossing that I completely forgot about the pilgrim rush from the Hajj. I arrived at the border at 8 a.m., the scheduled opening time, only to find it still closed. A crowd had already gathered, standing under the sun with no shelter, pushing, shouting, throwing luggage over the gate in frustration.
There is a VIP gate, but even that couldn’t avoid the traffic.
Eventually, they began letting people in, just six at a time. When the gate opened for the fourth time, I squeezed in with three young travellers, two French girls and a flamboyant British-Arab guy who sold luxury goods in the UK. All of them insisted they were European, and we were trying (unsuccessfully) to get directions from border staff who claimed they didn’t speak English.
Then came the comedy moment: these “Europeans” suddenly broke into fluent Arabic, demanding answers with confidence. They were originally from Algeria! And just like that, we got the information we needed. Borders bring out all kinds of identities.
But inside the crossing, it was chaos. No signs, no clear order.
Where do we pay the 10 JOD exit fee?
Where’s the bag scan?
Where’s the bus to Israeli-controlled side of the border?
No one explained anything. The officers were busy smoking and ignoring questions. What should have taken 90 minutes ended up taking six hours, from Jordan’s border gate to my hotel in Jerusalem.
Welcome to Israel: The Bra Incident & Paper Visas
Crossing into Israel wasn’t a relief, it was an ordeal of its own.
First, I had to check in and drop off my luggage. A QR sticker was placed on my passport for baggage tracking. Then came the security scan, and this is where my bra got us stuck. I was pulled aside for a full body search by a female officer.
After long queues came the entry interview, and finally, I was allowed in, but not with a passport stamp. Instead, you receive a paper visa slip that you must guard with your life. Every checkpoint will ask for it. If you visit Palestinian territories like Bethlehem or Jericho, you’ll need it to re-enter Israeli areas. Have money, you will pay a hefty Israeli exit tax!
Thankfully, what followed were some of the most spiritually meaningful moments of my life.
Returning to Jordan—and a Surprise Twist
Crossing back into Jordan was refreshingly easy. It felt redemptive after all the chaos. I got explore more of the beautiful country.
But about 48 hours later, Israel attacked Iran, Jordan closed its airspace, and I was stuck in Amman. Another border, another delay. Another lesson.
Tips for Surviving Land Borders
- Keep your story simple. Less is more.
- Print everything, visas, hotel bookings, bus tickets, whatever might help.
- Bring multiple currencies in cash. You may need to pay border fees, and cards aren’t always working.
- Pack wisely. You will be unpacked.
- Have something to eat and drink, you might be there for a while!
- Protect your Israeli paper visa. It’s your golden ticket.
- Stay calm. Border officers are human. Some are tired, overworked, or indifferent, but don’t let that throw you off.
- Have travel insurance because life happens! Also, try not to cross land borders on the same day you have a flight to catch.
I may never love land border crossings. But I know I’ll keep crossing them, because the stories, the lessons, and the spiritual encounters are often waiting just on the other side.
So I trust God, for wisdom, for patience, and for the grace to cross.
